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Facts About Growing Fruit Trees

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Facts About Growing Fruit Trees


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Home Page > Home Improvement > Gardening > Facts About Growing Fruit Trees

Facts About Growing Fruit Trees

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Posted: Jan 18, 2010 |Comments: 0
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Planting fruit trees in your yard can be productive. It provides shade for you and the whole family. Birds are also attracted and may be happy in building their nest on the trees. Growing trees can give you a pleasure when they start to bear fruits.

If you plant a single-semi dwarf apple tree, in a season you can produce up to 500 apples. Its productive life can reach 20 years. There is also a tree that has a shorter span in producing fruits, and it can take 8 months up to one year depending on its harvest time.

The benefits of planting fruit trees are many, you have to consider many things including, the type and size of trees, the location of the trees to grow, the condition of the soil, and the maintenance. It’s not that easy to grow fruit trees, but you can fully enjoy the rewards when it bears fruit.

If you want to have a shady tree, an oak or maple tree is the best choice to plant. It can be grown several feet away from your home in your backyard. Make sure that your fruit trees are not planted near your fence. When they are grown, they can damage your fence and can cause trouble to your neighbors.

The soil conditions are also an important consideration. If you are in a community that always experiencing drought, you can choose a Russian olive tree, Pear tree, and apple tree. These trees are well-suited for dry land. To improve the soil conditions you can add compost, mulch, or top soil. Make sure to water the soil constantly. An arborist can recommend to you different trees that are appropriate to your soil.

 

All trees require maintenance, which is another consideration in growing fruit trees. During the first year, pruning fruit trees are very important to get rid of any dead limbs or branches. These limbs should be inspected for any pest infestations. Trees that are planted closer to your houses should be pruned regularly.

There are three sizes of fruit trees that you can choose from. There are dwarf fruit trees, which are ideal for small spaces. They do very well in an 8’ diameter area. They are the easiest way to prune and harvest because they do not grow tall. The fruit has a normal size; the disadvantage is, it can produce less and has a shorter life span.

The semi-dwarf fruit tree requires a growing area of 15’ diameter, and they can range in height from 10 to 16’. They need annual pruning to keep the height down and the shape balanced. These trees are very productive; it can produce hundreds of fruit in one season.

The standard fruit trees are huge, which requires more space. It is more difficult to prune and harvest. At the peak of their growth, they can reach 40’ high, if left un-pruned. They are great for grandchildren to climb on and to attach a swing to it.

In choosing the trees to plant, it is helpful to go to the local nursery to check the different varieties. There are fruit trees that do not self-pollinate, so be ready with your pollinators.

 

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Come to http://www.naturehills.com/ to view all the fruit trees you can plant. Have you planted fruit trees before? You will be happy with the amount of fruit these trees produce. Choose the type of fruit that you like. Go now to Dwarf fruit tree and choose your fruit tree.

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I have this tree that is growing with my pear tree and it as unmatured fuzzy green what looks like a cross between a paer apple an a fig
I just collected some apples from my grandmothers tree. she just passed away and would like to start some trees with the seeds. what is the best way to get them to grow?

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Come to http://www.naturehills.com/ to view all the fruit trees you can plant. Have you planted fruit trees before? You will be happy with the amount of fruit these trees produce. Choose the type of fruit that you like. Go now to Dwarf fruit tree and choose your fruit tree.

How To Prune Fruit Trees

How To Prune Fruit Trees

How To Prune Fruit Trees


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Home Page > Home Improvement > Gardening > How To Prune Fruit Trees

How To Prune Fruit Trees

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Posted: Mar 30, 2010 |Comments: 0
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Don’t be afraid to prune your fruit trees. Unpruned trees become too bushy, lose their vigor, and produce smaller fruit. You can’t kill fruit trees by pruning incorrectly and you can correct any pruning mistakes as the tree grows.

Once you learn a few simple rules about which branches will bear fruit and how to shape the tree, you are ready to perform the yearly pruning that your fruit trees need. In general, you should do most pruning during the dormant season, but light pruning can be done in the summer to restrain excessive growth. 

PRUNING YOUNG TREES The first pruning provides an opportunity to start determining the eventual shape of the tree. The buds will sprout in the spring and grow in the general direction they were pointing. The buds nearest the end of each stem will grow more vigorously than those below it. Cut back to buds that are facing the direction you want the branch to grow. A branch coming off the trunk at nearly a right angle is much stronger than a branch growing at a more upright angle. If a tree does not form good branches (cherries, in particular, do no), you can tie weights or splints onto young branches to force them in a better direction. Retain some of the low branches for the first few years. Although these will not figure in the shape planned for the mature tree, the extra leafy growth will help develop trunk strength. 

THREE TRAINING STYLES 

Vase pruning shapes a tree to a short trunk and three or four main limbs, each with several lateral branches. This style creates an open center that allows light and air to reach all branches and promotes fruiting on the interior and lower branches. Vase pruning also helps keep tree height low for easy care and harvesting. This shape is particularly recommended for apricots, peaches, nectarines, and plums. Apples and pears are often pruned to a vase shape. This style is also appropriate for any trees in containers. 

Modified central leader pruning shapes a tree to one tall trunk with several major limbs branching off at different levels. This results in a strong form that will support heavy crops and survive stormy weather. The center of the tree is shaded, though, and will not produce much fruit. The taller tree is also more difficult to prune and harvest. Pecan, walnut, and other large trees are usually pruned to a modified central leader. Dwarf trees can also be trained in this style because their small volume does not inhibit interior fruiting. 

Delayed open center pruning attempts to combine the virtues of both vase and central leader pruning by providing the strength of a central leader and the sunny center of a vase shape. Semidwarf apples, other medium-size trees, and fruit trees planted in lawn areas can be shaped in the delayed open center style.Training to a vase shape. The scaffold branches are selected the first winter, when the tree is 1 year old, and developed over the next 2 years.

DEVELOPING VASE SHAPE

Follow this sequence for vase pruning: 

1. At planting, cut off the central stem 2 to 3 feet above the ground. Prune any side branches back to two buds.

2. During the first dormant season (a year after you plant the tree) remove the leader and direct growth to three or four strong scaffolds. Choose branches that radiate evenly around the trunk. Maintain about 6 vertical inches between the branches, and keep the lowest scaffold at least 18 inches off the ground. Leave some small branches on the lower trunk to encourage trunk strength. Prune back scaffolds to one-third of their length. 

3. During the second dormant season, prune off aggressive new shoots but leave twiggy growth, which will be the fruit-bearing wood in most trees. Choose and encourage additional scaffolds if needed. 

4. During the third dormant season, prune to remove any broken limbs or crossing branches, but don’t do any more major pruning until the tree has produced a good-sized crop. 

PRUNING MATURE TREES Once the basic shape of a tree has been developed, making pruning decisions according to which branches bear fruit. Most trees produce fruit on short branches, or spurs, which will bear fruit for several years. Prunce each year to remove excess growth and crossing branches; cut out a portion of the older fruiting wood each year. Here are some suggestions for pruning specific trees: 

Apple. Train standard-size trees to a vase shape and dwarf trees to a central leader. Fruit is produced on short spurs that last 5 to 10 years, and sometimes as long as 20 years. Prune lightly to remove one-tenth of the older wood each year. 

Apricot. Prune to a vase shape. Fruit is produced on the previous year’s stems and on spurs that last 3 to 4 years. Prune out one-fourth of the older growth and cut one-half of the previous year’s stems. 

Cherry. Train cherries to the central leader system. Fruit is produced in clusters on small spurs that last for 10 to 12 years. Sweet cherries need to be topped to keep the tree at a manageable size. Remove only weak and crossing branches in yearly pruning. Sour cherries are smaller, bushier plants and shoulder be pruned to increase branch length. 

Citrus. Mature citrus should not be pruned except to remove broken or twisted branches. They produce a great many shoots at pruning cuts, which results in a broom effect. Citrus may be bush or tree in form, depending on the variety. Fruit is borne on 1- or 2-year-old wood. 

Peach and nectarine. Train to a vase shape. Fruit is produced on the previous year’s long stems and on short-lived spurs. Prune back each of last year’s stems to onehalf its length. Annual pruning is more critical for peaches and nectarines than for any other fruit tree type. 

Pear. Train to a modified central leader with five or six scaffold branches. Fruit is produced on small, long-lived spurs. Prune lightly when of fruiting age. 

Plum. Plums are divided into two groups: Japanese (table plums such as Santa Rosa and Satsuma) and European (prunes). They are distinguished by the length of their fruiting spurs. Japanese spurs are 3 inches long. European spurs are up to 3 feet long. Both types bear fruit for 6 to 8 years. Some fruit is also produced on the previous year’s growth. Remove one-third of the new wood each year by thinning and shortening. When a branch has produced fruit for 8 years, select a new lateral and remove the old branch.

Thinning fruit Developing fruits should be thinned out on many types of trees. Cherries, citrus, figs, pears, and prunes are the exceptions and do not need thinning. Thinning results in fewer but larger fruits, but it should be done before the fruits are half-grown. Thin apricots so that the fruits are 2 to 3 inches apart; plums, 3 to 4 inches; nectarines, 4 to 5 inches; peaches, 5 to 6 inches; and apples, 8 inches apart, or one fruit per spur.

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Steve McShane
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Steve McShane is Founder, Owner and General Manager of McShane’s Nursery & Landscape Supply. Steve is a Soil Science Graduate from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo and has his MBA from Santa Clara University.

Email Steve: steve@mcshanesnursery.com

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Our enormous fig tree has been pruned heavily, some lower branches cut off completely. How can we help it to grow back quickly?
I have a dwarf cherry tree which I planted last year. It has grown well but did not bear fruit this year. Now the leaves are a blackish colour, as are our runner bean plants. Is this a disease?
I have this tree that is growing with my pear tree and it as unmatured fuzzy green what looks like a cross between a paer apple an a fig

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How To Choose A Strawberry Plant

Home grown strawberries are among the most amazing fresh fruits in the garden. The purpose of this handout is to introduce you to the essentials to “backyard success.”

By:
Steve McShanel

Home Improvement>
Gardeningl
Mar 30, 2010

How To Choose A Tomato Plant

Tomatoes are one of America’s favorite vegetables. They are packed with vitamins and offer an incredible eating experience when picked vine-ripe. Here at McShane’s we fancy ourselves on a wide selection of high quality plants. We stock hundreds over a season including rare and hard to find varieties. The purpose of this guide is to provide you with details on some of the various characteristics you will want to look for when selecting the ideal tomato for your garden Enjoy!

By:
Steve McShanel

Home Improvement>
Gardeningl
Mar 30, 2010
lViews: 163

How To Stop Garden Gophers And Voles

Do you have gophers in your garden? Here are some useful facts about gophers and useful tips on how to prevent or stop your gopher problems.

By:
Steve McShanel

Home Improvement>
Gardeningl
Mar 30, 2010
lViews: 263

How To Prune Climbing Roses

The severity of pruning differs. Prune more severely for larger (but fewer) flowers, for a smaller bush, or if a plant is weak. Heavier pruning leaves fewer buds to share the food stored in the dormant roots, so each bud will grow more vigorously. The degrees of pruning are defined according to the number and length of canes that are left. This article is a great primer on pruning roses.

By:
Steve McShanel

Home Improvement>
Gardeningl
Mar 30, 2010

How To Care For Garden Roses

The first line of defense against any rose problem is a strong, healthy plant. A little advance preparation such as the addition of well composted organic material to the soil before planting, will provide the optimal blooming environment. Fertilizer, amendments, and pruning helps as well. I have collected a list of common rose problems in the backyard garden along with suggested remedies.

By:
Steve McShanel

Home Improvement>
Gardeningl
Mar 30, 2010

How To Choose Pruning Tools

Your job to choose the right tool begins with understanding the application. For example, long handled loppers wouldn’t be best to trim a rose bush. Nor should you use pruning shears on a large branch on a 40 ft. ornamental tree. There are many tools available but what you really need is a basic assortment that will do the proper pruning in most yards. There are four essential tools for success.

By:
Steve McShanel

Home Improvement>
Gardeningl
Mar 30, 2010

How To Grow A Backyard Fruit Tree Orchard

Backyard orchards are NOT the same as commercial orchard culture. When planting fruit trees commercially the goal of a fruit tree orchard is to maximize volume of harvest per tree and harvest a single variety over a short amount of time. Homeowners, on the other hand, prefer to have as long a harvest time as possible, with the most varieties possible in their limited space. Here are some simple steps to maximize your space.

By:
Steve McShanel

Home Improvement>
Gardeningl
Mar 30, 2010
lViews: 191

How To Grow Dwarf Citrus

Dwarf Citrus are orchard-proven fruit-producing citrus varieties, grafted on cultivar specific dwarfing rootstocks. Deciding to plant dwarf citrus in your garden, rather than standard trees is a great idea. Dwarf citrus allows you to concentrate your collection thus “spread out” available fruit across a season. The following are some guidelines to your success.

By:
Steve McShanel

Home Improvement>
Gardeningl
Mar 30, 2010

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Steve McShane is Founder, Owner and General Manager of McShane’s Nursery & Landscape Supply. Steve is a Soil Science Graduate from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo and has his MBA from Santa Clara University.

Email Steve: steve@mcshanesnursery.com

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